GUO PEI
Style: Tribute to the era of haute couture, when life was more beautiful and dresses were more beautiful, as well.
Details: Filmy floor-sweeping gowns, contoured fit-and-flare cocktail numbers, and seductress mermaid styles; Chopard gems.
CHRISTIAN DIOR
Style: Travels & exploration, Frenchy.
Details: Dominant gray, men’s shoes, heavy fabrics.
A.F. VANDEVORST
Concept: You can use whatever as long as you’re working in a couture way.
Details: Local Antwerp garbage bags, the second-skin black vinyl, yellow latex accents, and faux fur outerwear, digital print of collaged upholstery fabrics.
ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER
Idea: To take the best from the past to advance forward; reviving the excellence and exuberance of ’80s haute couture.
Details: Asymmetric nipped-and-tucked volumes, draped colorful lamé like liquid metal, tuxedo jacket paired with city shorts, gauzy white shirts.
ARMANI PRIVÉ
Idea: Dedication to the incredible Franca Sozzani.
Details: Dark and somber palette of deep black with ruby red/hot pink/soft sapphire/deep lilac. Graphic, linear, and sculptural shaping.
CHANEL
Style: Deco motifs.
Details: Matching tweed Canotier hats, feathery shoulders, chemise dresses, bell-shaped skirts.
ELIE SAAB
Style: Fictional world of medieval kings and queens.
Details: floor-sweeping gowns with matching capes; velvets and silks embroidered with gold thread; heraldry beadwork.
FENDI
Good to know: Lattice of the attached shawl, which consists of 9,000 tiny discs that took 1,250 hours to hand sew.
Details: Shaved mink in all ways possible.
GIAMBATTISTA VALLI
Style: clothes that take hundreds of hours and many experienced hands to bring into being.
Details: Crystal and macramé embroideries; accessorised with vintage jewels from Eleuteri; draped silk chiffon dresses; various hues of pink.
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